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Spicules in skincare: What are they, how do they work, and are they worth the hype?

If you've been keeping up with K-beauty, you've probably noticed a new kind of skincare sensation – literally. Spicules are showing up in serums, creams, masks, and treatment products designed to improve the appearance of skin texture, pores, pigmentation, and signs of ageing. They're often described online as “liquid microneedling”, thanks to their microscopic, needle-like structure and prickly feeling on application10. But are spicules really microneedling in a bottle? What exactly are they doing to your skin? And does the science support all the claims surrounding this buzzy K-beauty technology? While there is real science behind spicules, some of the marketing has moved faster than the research. Let's take a closer look. So, what exactly are spicules? Spicules are actually found in nature. They're tiny, rigid, needle-like structures that form part of the skeleton of certain types of sponges. Depending on the sponge, they're made from materials such as silica or calcium carbonate6. And while they're incredibly small, their shape is what makes them interesting for skincare. Rather than being a traditional skincare ingredient like niacinamide, retinol, or vitamin C, spicules can work more like a delivery system. When applied to the skin, they physically interact with the outermost layer of the skin barrier, potentially creating microscopic pathways that can help certain ingredients move into the skin more6, 8. In other words, the spicule isn't necessarily the ingredient doing all the work. It's more like the tiny delivery driver. And what it's delivering matters. How do spicules actually work? Your skin barrier is very good at its job. It's designed to keep unwanted things out, while keeping moisture in. The problem? That also means some skincare ingredients can have a hard time getting past the surface. Enter spicules. Their tiny, rigid structures can interact with the stratum corneum by creating microscopic pathways. Research into spicule-assisted transdermal delivery systems suggests these pathways may temporarily increase skin permeability and help certain active ingredients penetrate more effectively6. Pretty clever for something you can't even see. It’s not just theory – lab research has found that marine sponge spicules can improve the penetration of certain larger molecules compared with passive delivery. And yes, they're supposed to tingle If you've ever used a spicule product, you'll probably know exactly what we're talking about. Because the spicules physically interact with the skin, some level of prickling can occur during and after application. How noticeable it feels depends on the product, the type and amount of spicules used, how you apply it, and your own skin. Remember: More sting doesn’t mean more results. There’s no evidence to suggest that stronger prickling sensations mean the product is working better automatically. What’s in a spicule product? Spicules aren't usually working alone. They’ll often be paired with other skincare ingredients such as peptides, PDRN, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, centella, or other ingredients designed to support hydration, brightening, or skin rejuvenation. The idea is pretty simple: Spicules help create the pathway. The rest of the formula delivers. What does the research say? Spicules aren’t new. Researchers have been investigating sponge-derived spicules as a potential way to deliver larger molecules through the skin for years. What's newer is seeing this technology move into everyday skincare. And while the research is still developing, there are some interesting early results.Studies have explored spicules alongside ingredients such as peptides, EGF, and other active ingredients, with research reporting improvements in areas including skin texture, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles, and acne1, 2, 4, 5. Some research has also found that spicules can help certain ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively, which is one of the main reasons they're getting so much attention6, 7, 8. The science is promising, and the good news is that spicules aren't just another viral skincare gimmick. Spicules vs Microneedling: Are they really the same? Short answer: no. It’s true that both involve very small, needle-like structures interacting with the skin, and are associated with the idea of creating pathways through the skin barrier. However, professional microneedling uses controlled needles and specialised equipment to create precisely defined micro-injuries at precisely selected depths as explained by Australian dermal clinician Yadira Galarza Cauchi11. Spicule skincare is a topical cosmetic treatment. Your spicule serum isn’t secretly a microneedling pen, unfortunately. Spicule skincare Professional microneedling What is it? Skincare containing microscopic spicules Professional treatment using controlled needles How does it work? Interacts with the outer skin barrier and may enhance ingredient delivery Creates controlled micro-injuries Depth Generally, more superficial Controlled treatment depth Main focus Ingredient delivery, exfoliation, and skin texture Skin remodelling and collagen induction Precision Depends on formulation and application Precisely controlled At-home? Some products are designed for home use Professional treatment What can spicule skincare actually do? Based on the research so far, spicules are being investigated for a range of potential benefits. Help deliver certain skincare ingredients Experimental studies suggest that spicules can increase skin permeability and improve delivery of selected compounds7, 8. Smooth the look of skin texture The physical interaction of spicules with the outer layers of skin may contribute to exfoliation, while active ingredients in the formula can target other aspects of skin texture6. Refine the appearance of pores Small human studies have reported improvements in pore-related measurements following spicule-containing treatments2, 3. Brighten the appearance of skin Research involving micro spicules and peptides has reported improvements in measures associated with skin brightness and pigmentation2. Target signs of ageing Early research has explored spicule formulations containing EGF and other bioactive ingredients for wrinkles and skin rejuvenation1, 5. Support acne-focused treatment There is some early research into spicule-containing formulations for acne, but the evidence is currently much smaller than the evidence base for established acne treatments4, 3. What about sensitive skin? Spicules are designed to physically interact with the skin, so some tingling, prickling, redness, or sensitivity can happen. That doesn't automatically mean something is wrong. But it also doesn't mean you should ignore your skin if it's telling you to slow down. Dermatologists interviewed by NBC Select recommend extra caution if you have very sensitive or compromised skin, rosacea, eczema, or active inflammatory skin conditions12 . Cosmetic chemist Gloria Lu has also highlighted questions around frequent use and the long-term effects of repeated exposure, particularly with stronger spicule formulations13. The golden rule: don't confuse irritation with efficacy. If your skin is burning, intensely red, or becoming increasingly irritated, that's not your cue to “push through”. How to use spicules in skincare? This is one area where your individual product instructions should always come first. Spicule products can vary significantly in their formulation and strength, so there isn't one universal “spicule routine”. If you're new to them: Start slowly Give your skin time to see how it responds before increasing how often you use the product. Don't chase the sting We've said it before, but it's worth repeating. More prickling doesn't mean better results. Keep the rest of your routine simple Especially when you're first introducing a spicule product. Be careful with strong actives Retinoids, exfoliating acids, and other potentially irritating products may not be the best companions when you're still figuring out how your skin responds to spicules. Keep your skin hydrated A good moisturiser can help support skin comfort and hydration. Give compromised skin a break If your skin is already irritated, peeling, inflamed, or feeling extra sensitive, it's probably not the time to introduce something designed to physically interact with your skin barrier. Shop the Spicule Trend Ready to try spicules for yourself? Here are a few ways to explore the trend, depending on what you're looking for: For beginners: VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 100 One of the best-known entry points into spicule skincare, designed for regular use and a smoother, more radiant-looking complexion. JM Solution Skin Boost Spicule 0.02 Serum a low-concentration spicule serum formulated with niacinamide, centella, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid to support smoother-looking, hydrated skin. JM Solution Skin Boost Spicule Two Step Mask A two-step treatment combining a spicule-infused ampoule with a sheet mask, with 0.05% micro-sized spicules alongside an amino acid complex and soothing ingredients. For a more targeted treatment: VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 300 A higher-intensity option designed to be used less frequently than Reedle Shot 100. Dr.G RTX Into Serum Peptishot Combines peptide spicules with peptides, retinal, and ceramide exosome for a firming-focused formula. Dr.Melaxin Cemenrete Cyano Pink Spicule Cream Combines micro-sized spicules with Vitamin B12, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin in a rich cream formula. For collagen-focused skincare: Mary & May Spicule Collagen PDRN Cream Combines spicules with collagen and PDRN, bringing together several of the ingredients currently driving the K-beauty skin-rejuvenation trend. VT Cosmetics Collagen Reedle Shot Combines Reedle Shot technology with collagen, peptides, niacinamide, and soothing ingredients for a plumping and firming-focused routine. Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Retinol Power Boosting Capsule Cream Combines white spicules with collagen, retinol, peptides, and multiple forms of hyaluronic acid for a rich, multi-active approach to smoother, more supple-looking skin. For a different active combination: VT Cosmetics Reti-A Reedle Shot 100 Combines the Reedle Shot technology with retinoid-focused skincare. Because retinoids can be irritating, this is one to introduce carefully rather than jumping straight into frequent use. Mary & May Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream Pairs spicules with retinol and PDRN for a multi-active approach to skin texture and signs of ageing Medicube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot Combines azelaic acid with exosome-focused skincare for a targeted approach to blemishes, redness, and uneven-looking skin. For soothing-focused skincare: VT Cosmetics Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100 Combines spicule technology with cica-focused care and is positioned by the brand for stressed and sensitive-feeling skin. THOME Hyaluron Boost Ampoule A hydrating ampoule featuring hyaluronic acid alongside spicules. Medicube Exosome Cica Serum Combines cica-focused care with exosome ingredients for a soothing, skin-conditioning addition to a spicule-focused routine. Other favourites: JM Solution Skin Boost Spicule Cleansing Foam 1.5 Brings spicules into the cleansing step, alongside niacinamide, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and centella. VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 700 The highest-intensity option in the Reedle Shot range, designed for less frequent use than lower-strength Reedle Shot formulas Medicube One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule 2000 Combines spicules with exosome-focused skincare in a targeted ampoule designed to refine the appearance of pores and support smoother-looking skin. Shop Spicule Skincare How to Choose a Spicule Product Not sure where to start? Look at what the spicules are paired with. Want hydration? Look for spicules paired with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or soothing ingredients. Want brightening? Look for formulas featuring ingredients such as niacinamide or vitamin-focused actives. Interested in skin texture? Look for spicule products formulated specifically around texture and pore concerns. Want to try the trend without going straight for a stronger formula? Start with a lower-intensity product and see how your skin responds. The key is not simply “How many spicules does it have?”, but rather “What's the whole formula trying to do?” Are spicules worth the hype? We're not at the point where we can say that every spicule product will deliver dramatic results, or that a spicule serum is equivalent to professional microneedling. And honestly, we don't think it needs to be. The most interesting thing about spicules isn't that they're “tiny needles in a bottle”. It's that they could be tiny delivery tools. The spicule creates the opportunity. The rest of the formula does the heavy lifting. So, the next time you spot a spicule serum on your skincare shelf, don't just look at how much it tingles. Look at what it's actually delivering. References Ha, J.-M., Lim, C.-A., Han, K., Ha, J.-C., Lee, H.-E., Lee, Y., Seo, Y.-J., Kim, C.-D., Lee, J.-H., & Im, M. (2017). The effect of micro-spicule containing epidermal growth factor on periocular wrinkles. Annals of Dermatology, 29(2), 187–193. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2017.29.2.187 Han, D.-S., & Kim, G.-S. (2025). Skin improvement efficacy of microspicule cosmetics containing low-molecular-weight peptide complexes. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 23(1), 135–151. Handayani, T., & Luziani, S. (2025). The effectiveness of hybrid peel (99% Spongilla spicules and 0.5% beta hydroxy acids) in treating acne-prone skin: A presentation of 4 cases. Journal of Dermatology and Advanced Clinical Care, 3(1), Article 105. https://doi.org/10.33790/jdacc1100105 Lee, C. H., & Choi, B. S. (2019). Improvement of facial acne on skin with 3% spicule. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 17(3), 397–410. https://doi.org/10.20402/ajbc.2019.0308 Lee, N. E., Kim, J. E., Bang, C. Y., & Bang, O. Y. (2025). Nano-encapsulated spicule system enhances delivery of Wharton's Jelly MSC secretome and promotes skin rejuvenation: Preclinical and clinical evaluation. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 26(20), 10024. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms262010024 Maimunah, S., Febriyanti, A. P., Fauziyah, B., & Agus, A. S. R. (2025). A literature review on spicule-assisted transdermal delivery systems (S-TDS): Penetration mechanistic and translational perspectives. Ad-Dawaa’ Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 8(2), 137–155. https://doi.org/10.24252/djps.v8i2.62569 Zhang, C., Duan, J., Huang, Y., & Chen, M. (2021). Enhanced skin delivery of therapeutic peptides using spicule-based topical delivery systems. Pharmaceutics, 13(12), 2119. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics13122119 Zhang, S., Ou, H., Liu, C., Zhang, Y., Mitragotri, S., Wang, D., et al. (2017). Skin delivery of hydrophilic biomacromolecules using marine sponge spicules. Molecular Pharmaceutics, 14, 3188–3200. Associated Skin Care Professionals. (2026). Spicules and sponges: The liquid microneedling craze [Audio podcast episode]. ASCP Esty Talk. Davis, E. (2026). Spicule skincare has been hailed as “liquid microneedling” – but does it really work? British Vogue. Galarza Cauchi, Y. (2026). Is spicule skincare really “microneedling in a bottle”? Adore Beauty. Heitman, B. (2026). Spicule skin care is touted as liquid microneedling, but does it even work? Derms explain. NBC Select. Lu, G. (2025). Reedle Shot deep dive! Science of spicules in skincare. Chemist Confessions. Shatzman, C. (2026). What is the K-beauty trend spicule skincare and how does it work? Good Housekeeping